The bridle track from Katoomba to the Jenolan Caves is not
very well known, and yet a trip possessing a greater variety of scenery or more
possibilities of perfect enjoyment might be searched for in vain. Certainly very few
people have any idea of the grandeur of this journey, or the path would not bear such a
neglected and desolate appearance. It is a matter for regret that those places which
require walking to are not often visited, and thus some of the finest views our country
possesses are not seen by the average person. All that is required is a fondness for
walking and the ability (if it might be so called) to appreciate the beautiful. With these
qualifications a holiday can be enjoyed which will for ever be remembered with infinite
pleasure. The distance is about 32 miles, and can be accomplished without difficulty in
two days. A tent, a blanket, and sufficient provisions for the journey should be taken.
Down Nellie's Glen
Leaving Katoomba, our path took us through Nellie's Glen,
which is not the least of all the Blue Mountain beauty spots, the wealth of ferns here
making it a formidable rival of the Leura fern gullies. Some distance down the glen there
is a small village, called Megalong. A school, a farm, and one or two huts were all the
buildings to be seen. It was not, however, until we had passed this place that our holiday
was enjoyed to its fullest extent. We were so near to human life and bustle and hurry, and
yet apparently so far away, for during the next two days we did not meet another person.
We were alone with Nature at her best, which nowadays is rather an uncommon position.
Proceeding from the foot of Nellie's Glen the track winds around the side of a mountain
and later on we could hear the gentle murmur of the Cox River, hundreds of feet below,
which accompanied us like sweet music until we descended to its banks several miles
further on. It is here that the traveller must be careful not to miss the track, as there
is no bridge to cross, and in looking for an easy crossing a wrong direction might be
taken. The path, all through, is marked by blazed trees, but at this point we followed
some blazed trees along the river bank for several miles, finally having to retrace our
steps.
After crossing and then leaving this romantic stream, the
surroundings become more wild and bushlike; rabbits dart away every few moments from
almost under one's feet, an occasional wallaby may be seen, and birds of endless variety
greet the walker with joyous song; the laughing jackass, however, finding him a source of
amusement, if one might judge by the endless laughter of these strange birds.
Little River
Yet another mountain to climb, and then descending to the
Little River our first day's walk is ended. At this place is an old disused hut, evidently
built many years ago, and if any objection exists to the open air, shelter may be had
inside. Of all the spots I have been in this one appeals to me most. We were hemmed in on
every side by high mountains. The air was perfect, and not a sound was to be heard save
the ripple of the delightful stream which flowed beside us. Everything was a picture of
rest and contentment, and it was not without a pang of regret that we bade farewell to the
Little River on the following morning, and commenced the ascent of the fearful Black
Range. Fifteen hundred feet rise in the next mile and a half, and yet more to follow; but
this is soon forgotten when the summit is reached and four or five miles of level country
is in front. How different this is to the rest of our journey. Whereas the rest of the
journey consisted of glorious hills and refreshing valleys, now we were walking for miles
on the top of a mountain, not a rise to be seen anywhere. The path led us through a
regular forest, the trees being remarkably tall and thick. The scent from the bush and the
music of the birds rendered this part of our walk most delightful.
Views Exceeded our Imagination
And now we meet the Mount Victoria road; but roads are not
for us; it was to escape them that we took this track through the wilderness, so after
following the road for a couple of miles we resume the track once more. Five more miles
and the world-famed Jenolan Caves will be seen. And what a 'five miles' it is. We had seen
all the Blue Mountains scenery, we had seen the best scenery that Sydney and its
surroundings can boast, but this was something which exceeded our imagination. Several
times during this last portion of our walk we were compelled to stand still with amazement
and admiration. Valley after valley stretched out before us in endless succession, as far
as the eye could see. The colouring and the various shades in the cliffs and trees being
altogether beyond description.
Our first sight of the Caves was through the Carlotta Arch,
our track taking us at the back of this. We arrived just in time for the afternoon
inspection, and afterwards obtained permission from the caretaker to camp in the grounds.
If anyone could disappointed at the two days' walk, the sight of these magnificent caves
would make them happy. The guides we found kind and civil, even going out of their way to
make us comfortable. The scenery around the Caves is quite worth while making the trip
for. The trip was a revelation to me. I saw a greater variety of birds and animals in
their natural state than I had ever seen before, and it was certainly the best holiday,
and I might add the cheapest, any of us had had before. If I remember rightly, the cost
for each was 25s for the week's holiday, which includes 7s 6d for inspection of five
caves.
